Travel 2nd June 2025 by Jade Hayden

A Weekend In Waterford: Good History, Great Food, and Amazing Weather

Copper coast, you are sublime

Ireland in good weather is unlike anywhere else.

It glistens, it shines, and its residents are only delighted that they finally get to go outside without a winter coat or a golf umbrella.

It’s special here when the sun shines, and even more special when you get to head away from Dublin for a weekend and spend some time in Waterford.

I’d been to Ireland’s oldest city (1,111 years this year, don’t you know) a few times before, but they were usually passing visits, with little time to explore, chill out, and experience its rich, vibrant history.

Upon arriving in the city, myself and my partner had a spot of lunch in No.9 Cafe – a tuna melt for me and a halloumi burger for her. Right in the heart of the main street, we had a bit of time to orient ourselves… and of course enjoy the food, which was tasty and plentiful.

Next we were off to a river tour with Osprey Viking Cruises, where captain Andy and guide John took us along the River Suir and told us stories of Waterford’s Middle Ages, and the city’s connections to major historical events like the sinking of the Titanic and JFK’s shooting.

A few tipples were had, the sun was shining, and learning about history had never been so enjoyable.

Dinner was in Bodega, a restaurant and winebar that prides itself on local ingredients and contemporary cooking. The space itself was gorgeous and the food even better – even though honestly we were still stuffed from lunch.

I went for a burrata salad to start and a truffle and mushroom risotto for my main, while my partner had a goats cheese salad and a cheese board for dinner (yes, for dinner). It was all super tasty, and we did our best to clear our plates despite our full bellies.

That night we stayed in the Viking Hotel, a 3 star stay about a 15 minute drive from the city centre. Staff were super accommodating and the newly renovated rooms gave us a welcome space to rest our heads.

We were up early the next morning to explore some of the city’s mediaeval quarter (and have an iced coffee in the sun), before embarking on the award-winning EPIC Guided Walking Tour, where we checked out six national monuments and discovered 1,000 years of history in 1,000 steps.

The tour was short enough, leaving us with ample time to hop back in the car and drive to our home for the night, the Courtyard Suite in Congreve Gardens – my personal highlight of the trip.

The former home of Ambrose Congreve is steeped in history, grandeur, and some of the most gorgeous greenery you’ll find this side of the Shannon.

The estate is now home to several gardens and walks, The Stables Cafe, off the grid bell tents and eco-cabins, and the newly renovated suites where we stayed in the west wing of the house.

Our room was decked out in period pieces as a nod to its bygone era, including a decorative fire place, antique furniture, vaulted ceilings, and a bathroom fit for a queen.

We had our own private entrance, a courtyard that ended up being the perfect gin and tonic sun trap, and access to bikes so we could cycle around the grounds and the Waterford Greenway, which Congreve connects to.

Food is served in the cafe until late afternoon, so we did a supermarket dash for some necessities (cheese and wine) and had a picnic out on the lawn. The gardens had closed to the public by this time, so we were totally alone. It was nothing short of bliss.

The next morning we had a lovely breakfast in the cafe and drove to Dunmore for a wander. We were once again stuffed, but if we hadn’t have been, East Pier fish and chip shop was right there for a feed.

Our next stop was the Copper Coast, and low and behold, the sun was still shining. We made it to Kilmurren Cove around midday and went for a dip in the sea before heading back for a sweat in the Hot Pod sauna. 

Let me tell you, anticipating the Irish sea is a lot less harrowing when you know you’ll be sweating out the salt in a minute or two.

The afternoon passed in the sun: laying in the heat on the cove, reading and snacking, until we pulled our tired bodies back to the car, ready for the drive home.

Waterford in the rain would been lovely all the same, but Waterford in the sun? There’s nothing like it.