Wait, ‘Leaky Skin’ is A Thing Now?

The skin barrier; the first line of defence against pollutants and germs. But what happens when the skin barrier is compromised, leaving the body open to irritants, skin conditions, and inflammation?

Introducing ‘leaky skin’ – a new way of describing a skin barrier that has become imbalanced. Contrary to what you might expect, leaky skin isn’t about substances coming out of the skin – it’s about the microbes that go in due to this compromised barrier.

Corinna Tolan, skin health advocate and founder of Monica Tolan Skin Experts, says that leaky skin is often caused by external factors, like “changes in lifestyle, relocating to a new country, medication, stress, and even climate shifts.

“Over time, these pressures, along with harsh skincare routines, over exfoliation, or overly invasive treatments, compromise the skin’s natural defence system. The result is trans epidermal water loss, redness, and irritation.

“Healthy skin relies on beneficial bacteria to communicate with the immune system, regulate repair, and protect against external threats. When we strip away that microbial support, we’re left with vulnerable skin that struggles to retain moisture and resilience.”

Leaky skin is generally associated with skin conditions like eczema, acne and rosacea, as well as an unhealthy gut microbiome. But it can also be caused by an overuse of exfoliating products, over active ingredients, and the repeated use of aggressive skin treatments without enough recovery time.

Corinna says that maintaining a strong skin barrier is paramount – by supporting the skin in and outside of the body. She says, “The focus should always be on maintaining a balanced, resilient barrier. This means using non irritating forms of topical Vitamin A (Vitamin A esters), to normalise skin function, repair damage, and strengthen the barrier.

“Internally, supporting the body with a nutrient dense diet and, if required, supplementation is key. It’s also important to maintain a fibre rich diet, as fibre acts as food for your microbiome, helping beneficial bacteria thrive both in the gut and on the skin.”

Where once the skincare industry focused on removing bacteria, we’re now deep in the pro-bacteria era, where what’s good for the skin is nurtured, not nuked.

“Our skin is an intelligent, living ecosystem,” says Corinna. “With an estimated 7.8 million bacteria per square centimetre of skin, our role as skin therapists is to nurture that system, not sterilise it, helping the skin return to its healthiest and most resilient state.”

So, what products can you use to look after these good bacteria, and to maintain a healthy skin barrier? SIV Biome-Balancing Serum uses spore-based technology and a quorum-sensing formula to read and respond to your skin’s microbial environment, resulting in a stronger barrier, reduce inflammation, and of course, no more leaky skin.

Monica Tolan SIV Biome-Balancing Serum – €90 

If you’re in the market for something a little more budget friendly, The INKEY List’s Ectoin Hydro-Barrier Serum tackles dryness, flakiness, redness, and slackness, all the while boosting hydration and building skin barrier strength.

The INKEY List’s Ectoin Hydro-Barrier Serum – €17

Medik8’s Ultimate Recovery cream also creates a protective barrier to shield skin from everyday irritants, while reducing redness and inflammation.

Medik8 Ultimate Recovery – €49

Leaky skin may be winter 2025’s skincare buzzword, but that doesn’t mean it needs to dominate our faces – and let in all of those pesky irritants either.

A compromised skin barrier is a skin issue, but it’s not a skincare problem that can’t be solved.