What Is Dermorexia, & How Do You Know If You Have It?

Children using retinol. Teenagers Googling botox appointments. Young women applying 20 and counting products to their faces, in search of a perfection that doesn’t actually exist.

If the above sounds familiar to you, you’ve probably stumbled across SkinTok – the side of TikTok that can be incredibly helpful in beginning your skincare journey… but can also transform your daily routine into an unrecognisable, prolonged, obsessive experience that isn’t doing any good for your skin. Or your mental health.

Enter ‘Dermorexia’, where skincare becomes more than a self-care ritual. Instead, it’s an obsessive fixation where young women are going into debt in a bid to achieve a glassy, eternally youthful, perpetual glow up.

Dr Emma Cunningham, aesthetic doctor and founder of Dr Emma Clinics, says that dermorexia reflect a wider issue: “The pressure for ‘perfect skin’ that is perpetuated by social media, filters, and unrealistic beauty standards.”

“Skincare is meant to be supportive and nurturing, but when self-worth becomes tied to flawless skin, it can spiral into an unhealthy obsession,” she says. “Constant exposure to idealised images online can create the belief that normal skin texture, pores, or occasional blemishes are flaws needing ‘fixing’—when in reality, they are entirely normal.

“Overuse of products, layering multiple actives, and constantly switching routines can ironically damage the skin barrier, causing the very issues people are trying to prevent.” 

‘Dermorexia’ is a relatively new term. It first appeared on a Substack by beauty writer Jessica DeFino, who dubbed young women and girls’ obsession with skincare “detrimental to the health and functioning of our skin.”

Jessica compared the excessive use of skincare products to ‘orthorexia’, the obsession with health, clean eating, and exercise, and said that most dermatologists would encourage a simple skincare routine – not one with 10 steps, five actives, and an overnight mask to boot.

Dr Emma says this shift in skincare mentality was borne out of the pandemic; a time when many of us didn’t have a whole lot else to do, other than look inward, consider our flaws, and spend copious amounts of money on self-care.

“This brought positives, greater awareness about ingredients, sun protection, and preventative care but also created some confusion and overwhelm,” she says.

“An explosion of information and often misinformation on platforms like TikTok and Instagram has led to a “more is more” mentality in some cases, encouraging unnecessary steps and complicated routines.”

But it’s not just women who are over-engaging with skincare. These days, teenagers – and even some children – are slathering serums, oils, and acids all over their faces in the hope of staving off any signs of ageing. 

Have a scroll through TikTok and you’ll be met with hundreds of videos of pre-teen girls waxing lyrical about brands like Drunk Elephant, BYOME, and The Ordinary.

And while some of these brands do offer products that are safe for teenagers to use (like acne creams, cleansers, and SPFs), there are countless other serums and actives that children should not be putting on their skin.

Dr Emma says this influx of teens becoming interested in skincare is a double edged sword. On one hand, it’s great that young people are practicing sun protection and good hygiene. On the other, “very young teenagers using high-strength actives (like retinoids, acids, or anti-ageing serums designed for mature skin) is concerning.”

“Their skin is still developing, and the wrong use of product can cause barrier damage, sensitivity, and even long-term issues,” she says.

Dr Emma’s Teenage Skincare Project aims to teach young people how to look after their skin appropriately, away from trending products and influencer hype.

“Education is key,” she says. “We want to equip them with knowledge and confidence, encouraging simple, age-appropriate routines that protect and support healthy skin rather than trying to ‘fix’ something that isn’t broken.”

So, where does that leave us? Dermorexia may be a new term, but that doesn’t mean its effects can’t be detrimental to the body… and the mind too.

If you’re concerned that your skincare is becoming a little bit less about having healthy skin, and more about having perfect skin (ps, that doesn’t exist), you could chat to a dermatologist about what ‘healthy’ looks like for you.

They’ll be able to tell you what your skin actually needs, whether you’re doing too much, and give you goals that are actually realistic for your skin type.

It’s also important not to purchase beyond your budget. There are plenty of products out there that won’t cost an arm and a leg, and will keep your skin feeling nourished and protected.