Trends 20th August 2015 by Michelle O'Brien
Would You Shave Your Face? It’s The Next Big Beauty Buzz
Before you take your Venus to your visage, we'd like to introduce you to dermaplaning - the in-salon shave, with the primary purpose of facial exfoliation, not hair removal.
We’re intrigued and scared, but mostly intrigued. We’ve definitely thought about shaving our tache when we didn’t have time for a wax and found ourselves scraping the bottom of the Jolen tub, but we resisted… til now. Dermaplaning is a simple, physical method of exfoliation, with the added benefit of hair removal. Whoop! We caught up with aesthetician Julia McHugh from We Love Laser about the popular procedure.
What is dermaplaning?
Dermaplaning is a method of exfoliation using a #10 surgical blade. It removes up to three weeks worth of dead skin and is suitable for most skin types. Dermaplaning will give you all the benefits of a salon strength exfoliation such as a brighter, more glowing complexion, increased collagen production and faster cell renewal. It also has the added advantage of removing most of the vellus hair (peach fuzz) on the face, however this isn’t it’s main purpose.
So you don’t use a razor then?
No, we use a specially designed scalpel that has the pointy edge rounded off – it looks like a butter knife. It’s very safe but extremely sharp which makes the treatment so precise. Razors are designed to remove thick course hair from our legs, underarm or a mans face – not our delicate ones!
Is it a myth that if we remove facial hair, it will grow back thicker, darker and coarser?
It’s absolutely a myth. Cutting the hair across the shaft has no effect on a hair follicle’s growth cycle – it’s a proven fact.
What does the procedure entail exactly?
The aesthetician will cleanse and thoroughly dry your skin. Next, an area of skin will be pulled taut and the blade positioned at a 45 degree angle. Using short, swift strokes, dead skin cells and vellus hair will be scraped off.
Will you be able to see the pile of gunk that comes off your face?
This is probably one of the more enjoyable, or gross bits of the treatment, depending on how you look at it! Some people love to see how much dead skin and hair has come off their face at the end of the treatment!
Does it hurt?
Not at all. As with all exfoliation treatments the skin might be a little sensitive for a few days afterwards as the upper layer of skin has been removed. You might be a little pink but nothing that can’t be concealed with mineral makeup, and certainly nothing that would change your daily routine. Most people just look instantly better after the treatment, there’s no downtime.
Do we need a course of appointments or will one treatment suffice?
It would really depend on the skin condition. If you have a client with very well maintained skin coming in for just a little lift then, yes, one will suffice. However, more treatments will stimulate cell turnover on a regular basis while boosting collagen production – this is the ideal outcome.
What skincare should we use prior to and after treatment?
I would stop topical retinol for 72 hrs pre-and post-treatment, no acids should be used 24hrs pre-treatment or 72hrs post-treatment, and definitely no facial waxing or laser for a week or two either side.
Everybody should have a little post-care kit for when they have a professional aesthetic treatment – a gentle cleanser, an anti-inflammatory or antioxidant serum to reduce redness and encourage healing and hydration, and definitely a big tube of broad spectrum sunscreen. It’s very important to look after this ‘new’ skin.
Will our skincare work more effectively after a treatment?
Yes, the skin’s main job is to act as a barrier against bacteria, infection and injury. When you remove the outermost layer of the epidermis, products will absorb sometimes up to fifty percent more following a treatment.
Will our make-up apply easier?
Definitely, and this is why lots of brides request dermaplaning – make-up just glides on afterwards. The skin also reflects light better when there is no surface vellus hair.
Is dermaplaning suitable for all skin types?
As a rule of thumb, I wouldn’t treat acneic skins. If you have a blemish or two you can dermaplane around them. I have extremely sensitive skin myself and I find this treatment suits me as peels are too harsh and microdermabrasion can be too much of a vascular stimulant on those prone to broken veins.