Okay, What Is The Difference Between Retinol & Retinal?

And sorry but what are retinoids?

We’ve all been there – the skincare aisle, faced with a million and one products and no idea where to start.

Every time I log onto TikTok, there’s a woman with stunning skin telling me it’s time to start my retinol journey.

It will transform my skin, she says. My face will never be the same again, she tells me.

But if you, like me, have absolutely no idea where to start with retinol, retinal, and retinoids (an umbrella term for all vitamin A derivatives – the more you know), you’re not alone.

And thankfully, we’ve got the answers for you.

Shannon Mc Creery, Head of Education at IMAGE Skincare Ireland, says that retinol, retinal, and retinoids are all forms of vitamin A.

“In our skin retinol will go through two conversions,” she says. “First it converts to retinal (retinaldehyde) and then to retinoic acid, which is the form that skin cells can actually use. Because of these conversion steps, retinol tends to be gentler and less irritating than prescription strengths.

“Retinal (or retinaldehyde) sits right in between retinol and prescription retinoic acid in terms of strength. It only needs one conversion step to become active this ingredient, this can be less stable than retinol and cause more irritation to the skin.

“The word Retinoids is the umbrella term for all vitamin A derivatives from prescription strength to over the counter.”

via Pexels

Retinol has become a bit of a powerhouse ingredient in skincare, but what does it actually do?

Shannon says that it’s “clinically proven to support collagen production, speed up cell turnover, help reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and discolouration.

“Adding a retinol product to your skincare routine can be transformative, especially for those concerned with pre mature ageing, texture, tone and breakouts. Retinol is the ideal ingredient for clients wanting to target and treat skin concerns and see a visible result!”

The thing that people seem to love about retinol is that it’s an active – meaning that it targets specific skin concerns – but also that just about any skin type can use it.ย 

You do, however, need to make sure that you’re starting slow… especially if it’s your first time using the ingredient.

ย “It’s about finding the right formula and strength for your skin type,” says Shannon. “Even those with sensitive skin can often tolerate retinol by starting with a low concentration and applying it less frequently.

“The only clients I would advise not to use retinol are clients who are pregnant or breastfeeding as it can be overstimulating to the skin.”

Shannon points to Image Skincare’s newย AGELESS+ RETINOL as a good place to start, as it also contains XOSM technology which helps reduce inflammation and possible irritation usually associated with retinol use.

Other popular options include The Ordinary’s 1% Retinol, the Inkey List’s Retinol Serum, and MediK8 Crystal Retinal3.

Retinol isn’t like your moisturiser. You can’t just use it whenever you feel like it, slathering it all over your skin when you feel your barrier is a little weak.

Actually, it’s the opposite, as one of the most common mistakes people make when starting a retinol journey is using too much of a formula that’s too strong.

Shannon compares it to going to the gym: you wouldn’t start lifting a 50kg weight on your first day. You’d build that strength up over time as your body gets stronger.

“Retinol works by stimulating and supporting the skin in a unique way to make it healthier,” she says. “However, if you introduce it too aggressively, you can overstimulate the skin, leading to dryness, irritation, and inflammation.

“As a result, many people get discouraged and think retinol is damaging their skin, when in reality, their skin has simply been overwhelmed. By starting with a low concentration of vitamin A, you allow your skin time to adapt, gradually converting and using it effectively.

“As your skin acclimates, you can then move to higher strengths and increase usage frequency. This gradual approach lets you enjoy all the benefits of retinol without the unwanted side effects. “

So there you go – go forth, begin your retinol journey, and never be daunted by actives again!