The Real & Fascinating Story Behind The Birkin Bag

You may have heard about the French luxury brand Hermès, which celebrities, influencers and fashion enthusiasts love. Hermés is known for its silk scarves and Kelly bags, named after Grace Kelly and the iconic Birkin bag.

Here’s how the renowned bag came to be. 

Hermès’ humble beginnings

The luxury brand was established in 1837 in Paris when Thierry Hermès opened a workshop where he made his award-winning harnesses for horses; they were technically advanced for the time with their lightweight, durable and elegant simplicity. In 1880, the first store was opened, which was revolutionary as harnesses could be measured by size.

The legacy continued as the brand grew. As a third-generation son, Émile invented the zipper, and he went on to design a men’s golf jacket, jewellery, watches, and sandals by 1928. Hermés introduced silk scarves in 1937, which were designed by son-in-law Robert Dumas.

Robert was running Hermès in 1951, and he transformed the brand after he named one of his 1930s bag designs after Grace Kelly because she was heavily photographed with a Hermès bag.

 

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Jane Birkin 

Jane Birkin was a British English-French activist, singer and actor known to advocate for animal welfare and women. Jane was also known for her effortless beauty, humour, and style; she was also known to carry around a wicker basket as a handbag.

Jane had her breakthrough when she starred in Slogan with Serge Gainsbourg. The two later collaborated on the iconic 1969 song ‘Je t’aime… moi non plus.’ The song was controversial due to its explicit lyrics; the Vatican even banned it!

Jane and Serge were partners for 12 years and had a child together. The pair broke up but remained very good friends until his unexpected passing in 1991. Jane would continue to star in over 65 films and release over 20 albums. She passed away in 2023 at the age of 76. 

The birth of the Birkin 

The son of Robert Dumas, Jean-Louis met Jane Birkin coincidentally on a plane from Paris to London in 1984. Jane’s belongings fell out from her bag, and it just so happened that Jean-Louis, the former executive Chairman of Hermès, was on board.

He asked Jane, “You should have one with pockets” Jane replied,”The day Hermès makes one with pockets I will have that” and Jean-Louis said, “But I am Hermès” (humble brag).

 

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Jane sketched a rough drawing using a sick bag from the plane. She wanted a bag bigger than the Kelly but smaller than a suitcase. The two would meet, and the vision came to life. The bag was initially made of leather, but now, various sizes, colours, and materials are made by hand. 

The slow rise of the Birkin 

It took a while for the Birkin to become the sensation it is today; as Chanel was the number one luxury brand in the 1980s, it only became iconic in the mid to late 1990s.

When the first Birkin was released, it cost around $2000 in 1984, but if you’d like one today, they start at $10,000 for the standard bag and up to $300,000 depending on the bag, condition, and specs. Birkins can go for even more at auctions.

The controversy 

In 2015, Jane Birkin requested for her name to be removed until better practices could be implemented; this request was raised after a video showing “cruel practices endured by crocodiles” on a farm that Hermès allegedly owned.

The brand publicly responded, stating that an investigation will be started, that they abide by all standards, and that any breach of rules will be rectified and sanctioned.

Exclusivity & status 

Birkin bags are the epitome of status to many; celebrities such as Paris Hilton, Victoria Beckham, Beyoncé and Kylie Jenner have shown off their collections in interviews and in public. Even though technology has changed over the last 200 years since Hermès’ establishment, the brand does not abide with other luxury brands.

 

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They don’t gift bags to celebrities, do not engage in partnerships, or use social media marketing, making Hermès less attainable and more attractive. This strategy clearly works, as the brand made $14.5 billion in 2023. 

It is interesting to see the shift from Jane using the Birkin Bag like any €10 bag, stuffed to the brim, added keychains and even stickers compared to how celebrities have them stored meticulously in their beautiful closets or never daring to touch the floor. Whether you love them or hate the Birkin, it is an iconic piece of fashion history that is still relevant 40 years later. 

Ps. If you don’t have a spare $10,000 (like me), there are plenty of dupes if you like the design. 

Words by EmilyRose Nulty

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• birkin bag
• Fashion