The History Of The Little Black Dress (LBD)

The Little Black Dress has been a phenomenon for nearly 100 years; featuring in huge pop culture moments from Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s in 1961 to Princess Diana’s iconic revenge dress in 1991.

It is a staple in the fashion world, and many of us may have an LBD of some kind. Here’s the story of how one of the longest-standing fashion trends was born.

Gabrielle Chanel

The story of Coco Chanel is hazy; many different versions are available that tell the story of Chanel’s life. According to BBC writer Anna Richards, Chanel was interviewed by various journalists throughout her life and career, and her answers didn’t add up, especially regarding her childhood. Fashion writer Justine Picardie believes that “the truth about her childhood was too unbearable, and I think she wanted to leave it as far behind her as possible.” 

Coco Chanel, born Gabrielle Chanel, was born on the 19th of August 1883 in Saumur, France. Her parents weren’t married at the time of her or older sister Julia’s birth. They two ended up marrying when Gabrielle was just over one year old.

 

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However, her father wasn’t particularly present in their lives. Her mother passed away in 1895 and unfortunately for the sisters, they would move around a lot and stay with family members for a while until their father put them in an orphanage in 1896, where Gabrielle would stay until she was eighteen. This is when she created her designs. 

She got first-hand experience when she got placed as a seamstress in a drawer’s shop where she worked with her sister. She would interact with many army officers during this time. She also sang with her sister at local concerts and would sing Qui qu’a vu Coco? This was the start of Coco Chanel. 

Coco Chanel

Chanel opened her first shop in 1910, where she sold hats. French actresses would wear Chanel’s hats, which helped her gain recognition. In 1913, she sold sportswear made from jersey material. This was revolutionary, as previously, jerseys were only used for men’s underwear, which was very successful. In 1915, Chanel opened her couture shop, where she employed 300 people and designed her first Haute Couture collection.

Chanel’s success continued to grow; she opened more shops and released multiple signature perfumes and makeup.

The Little Black Dress 

Chanel wasn’t the first designer to create a black trace; this can be traced back to Queen Victoria. When her husband, Prince Albert died, she was known to wear black dresses as a sign of mourning, which she wore daily for 40 years until her passing. Over the years, people of all classes would create their own black dresses.

The First World War also contributed to the rise of black dresses. Women needed practical, simple dresses they could wear while mourning. Black dresses were also popular during WWII due to material shortages.

 

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 In October 1926, Vogue featured the Little Black Dress by Coco Chanel on the cover.

The LBD became a staple for 20th-century women; it could be worn during the day or at night, and it was versatile and classic. Curator Georgina Ripley told the BBC that black dresses were fashionable and Chanel had released others prior. She said, “But there’s something about this moment and the way it embodies the modernising spirit of the 1920s.” 

Evolution & meaning 

Over the years, the LBD evolved with society. Depending on the year, it changed to fit the modern woman. In the late 1920s-30s, the LBD was simpler, reflecting the Great Depression. In the 1940s-50s, Dior created his version of the LBD, making it more structured.

In the 60s, the LBD was shorter and more playful. In the 90s, the LBD needed to fit the working woman; it became minimalistic and versatile. The LBD represents independence and empowerment, as well as elegance. It is a sustainable, timeless trend and something you can personalise to your style. 

So wear yours however you like, and feel amazing while doing it.

Words by EmilyRose Nulty

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