The Politics Behind Vans’ Old Skool 36 Souvenir Design

It’s nothing new to us that fashion isn’t just a pile of fabrics, a ticket up the social ladder, or a symptom of consumerism — it’s history, it’s politics, it’s storytelling in stitches. We’ve seen countless collections where designers used clothes as a political statement, and we’ve seen everyday people turn garments into walking manifestos.

Remember the 1970s in England, when certain subcultures adopted the keffiyeh — that white-and-black cotton or fine wool scarf, once worn by Palestinian guerrilla fighters during the 1930s Arab Revolt — as a sign of solidarity with Palestine in its struggle to reclaim land from Israel?

And then there was Raf Simons, who brought the keffiyeh to the runway in his Autumn/Winter 2001–02 collection Riot, Riot, Riot. It wasn’t just masculine tailoring meeting streetwear — it was “terrorist chic” laced with defiance, a visual echo of youth rebellion spilling out onto the streets.

Or think back to Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Spring/Summer 2017 debut at Dior, when she sent models down the runway in crisp white tees emblazoned with We Should All Be Feminists. The slogan, borrowed from Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s powerful TEDx Talk, turned the catwalk into a rallying cry.

And who could forget Karl Lagerfeld’s nod to his own memories of the 1968 Paris riots — the protests for a more democratic society — and to the feminism his mother instilled in him?

If Lagerfeld’s On the Pavement collection has slipped from your memory, let’s set the scene — because it’s the heartbeat behind Vans’ upcoming Old Skool 36 Souvenir, dropping this fall.

Back in 2014, Karl Lagerfeld didn’t just stage a show; he staged a revolution inside the Grand Palais. The Paris museum complex morphed into a protest street, complete with cracked asphalt, tufts of grass, and even glistening puddles. His Spring/Summer 2015 collection marched to the beat of first- and second-wave feminism.

Cara Delevingne and Gisele Bündchen strode down the “streets” with placards shouting “History Is Her Story,” “Ladies First,” and “#HeForShe” — a direct reference to Emma Watson’s UN speech. And among the tweeds, silks, and slogans, one accessory stole the spotlight: a graffiti-splashed bag named Souvenir.

 

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The bag won hearts with its militaristic edge, its multicoloured tweed double-C logo, and its scatter of pins, knitted brooches, and tiny graffiti — from the hippie peace sign to slogans like “Make Fashion Not War” and Féministe Mais Féminine (“Feminist but Feminine”).

Given the political charge behind it, it’s no surprise the bag quickly found fame, spotted on celebrities like Bella Hadid as part of their casual looks. And now, 11 years after its debut, its protest-vintage design is being revived, ready to speak to a new generation.

On July 31, Vans announced the release of a new model set to hit stores this fall — fittingly named Souvenir, since its inspiration is drawn straight from the messenger bag of Chanel’s On the Pavement SS15 collection.

This new take on the Old Skool silhouette comes in spray-painted olive canvas, adorned with pins like peace symbols, and finished with multicoloured tweed Jazz stripes. Brown leather overlays echo Chanel’s touch on the original bag, while the inside of the shoes features a purple leather sockliner. The look is completed with a thick sole in a vintage, worn-out finish.

 

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It’s easy to see why Karl Lagerfeld, in 2014, drew on his memories of the Paris riots and the influence of his feminist mother. Whether it was pure coincidence or careful intent, creating a protest collection that celebrated women’s rights felt perfectly timed.

Beyond Emma Watson’s campaign for gender equality, that year saw a powerful pushback against violence toward women — from campaigns against campus rape to online misogyny and trolling. Domestic violence laws showed their force, with high-profile arrests like NFL player Ray Rice and others sending a clear message. Women were also making historic strides: winning the Nobel Peace Prize, taking the helm at the US Federal Reserve, and stepping into institutions long dominated by men.

But why did Vans choose 2025 to release the Old Skool 36 Souvenir? Was it simply a nostalgic nod to past collections, or did something in the present spark the revival?

The pins bearing peace signs — first embraced by hippies in the 1960s as a protest against the Vietnam War — sadly feel as urgent as ever. With wars in Ukraine and Palestine, the symbol still carries weight, and the keffiyeh still remains a visible statement of solidarity at pro-Palestinian protests today.

 

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When it comes to the feminist angle, the truth is — we don’t know yet. There’s little information about the new model, so all we can do is assume.

Women today have education, corporate careers, seats in government, leadership roles, and financial independence. So what exactly is Vans protesting against, or trying to say, with this release?

Maybe it’s less about a fight and more about a reminder — a reminder of what feminism has already won, and the freedoms it’s handed down. Because right now, the cultural conversation is brimming with backlash. Some say feminism went too far. That it’s divided women. That liberal feminism has led half of women to choose not to have children, too focused on careers and money. That the sexual revolution changed intimacy — and not always for the better. That women have become so powerful, men now feel threatened.

And beyond the debates, research backs up the tension: 48% of Gen Z women and 59% of Gen Z men believe women’s equality has tipped into discrimination against men — a perception fuelled by the fact that Gen Z women are expected to have brighter futures than their male peers.

Whether that’s true is a question for another story. But what we do know is that feminism, like any other movements, has a flip side as well, and it’s sparking fierce arguments today. And in the middle of all that noise, Vans’ Old Skool 36 Souvenir — born from Lagerfeld’s ode to first- and second-wave feminism — lands like a stitched-up slogan. A wearable protest. A whisper, or maybe a shout, of Make Fashion Not War. A reminder of the wins worth keeping, and of the women who, in 2014 and still today, know exactly how to use them.

Words by Dana Shmyha